by Elaine González
Chocolate’s botanical history is dark and mysterious, rooted in ancient mythological tales. It is said that Quetzalcoatl, the benevolent “Feathered Serpent” god, took human form, descended to earth and presented the ancient people of Mexico with a gift from the garden of Paradise: the cacao tree. He showed them how to plant the tree, harvest the fruit, and prepare his favorite drink, Xocolatl. He instructed Tlaloc, the god of rain, to nourish the tree; Xochiquetzal, the goddess of love, was told to adorn it with flowers and infuse it with her spirit.
Linnaeus, the great 18th century botanist, memorialized the legend by naming the tree Theobroma cacao L, “Food of the Gods,” from the Greek words theo (god) and broma (food). Many botanists believe that the first cacao trees grew wild in the Amazon basin or in the Orinoco Valley of South America. The domestication of the cacao tree, however, did not begin until it reached the lush tropical lowlands of Central America and southern Mexico over 3,000 years ago.
The Olmecs, the oldest civilization of the Americas (1500-400 B.C.), were probably the first users of cacao. Though few written records survived their swampy terrain environment, recent linguistic findings suggest the word “cacao” is derived from the word kakawa in Mixe-Zoquean, believed to have been their language. The Olmec presence is still evident in Tabasco, Mexico, in the colossal heads they left behind.
The chocolate legacy passed from the Olmecs to the Maya, one of Mesoamerica’s most advanced civilizations. The Maya built cities and temples, mastered astronomy and mathematics, and consumed cacao-based drinks made with beans from their plantations in the Chontalpa region of what is now eastern Tabasco. Archaeologists have discovered drinking vessels, elaborately decorated with chocolate illustrations that contain traces of ceremonial chocolate drinks dating from 250 to 900 A.D. Today, in the same Chontalpa region, descendants of the Maya still grow and harvest cacao and prepare Chorote and Pozol, cacao-corn-based drinks similar to those consumed by their noble ancestors.
Cacao beans were so valued in ancient Mexico that the Maya and later (Toltec and Aztec) civilizations used them as currency to purchase small household items and pay for various services; a large tomato was worth one bean, a rabbit 10 beans, and a slave 100 beans. Taxes levied against conquered tribes were also paid in cacao beans, but by the sack, each containing about 24,000 beans.
Some cacao beans were also sold in markets for consumption by the elite – the nobility, warriors and long-distance merchants. Today, vendors in markets all over Mexico sell cacao beans to those who still grind them at home.
Moctezuma, the great Aztec emperor, loved chocolate so much that he consumed 50 cups each day at his sumptuous 300-course banquets. Then he adjourned to his harem (presumably to celebrate his accomplishment). Pity the poor cook who had to prepare all those drinks! First she toasted the beans on a clay comal (griddle) over an open fire. Then, hunched on her knees over a three-legged, slanted stone metate, she laboriously ground the beans until a stream of liquid chocolate trickled off the metate’s edge and filled an earthen bowl. Finally, she added water for a coarse mixture, which she flavored with one, or more additions of honey, dried flowers, vanilla, achiote (annatto – for color), chili, allspice or finely ground corn.
Many indigenous people in rural Mexico still prepare their chocolate this way. Today’s hot cocoa is a far cry from the exotic chocolate drink that Hernán Cortés first sampled at Moctezuma’s table when he arrived in 1519. The drink repelled the Spanish at first, but when their wine ran out, they overcame their distaste.
The Spanish quickly transformed Moctezuma’s brew by heating it and adding ingredients they had brought with them to the New World: sugar, cinnamon, ground almonds, milk. This mestizo recipe is still used today in most of the Spanish-speaking world and in homes that preserve the old traditions.
(Customarily, churros, pieces of bread or crispy cookies are dunked into steaming hot chocolate, thus preventing many a burnt lip).
story continued in History of Chocolate end.
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